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Updates from Argentina
Wednesday, 28 February 2007
My personal experience on the Big Island of Chiloe
Topic: Chile

My personal experience on the Big Island of Chiloe.

 


From Chile's Mainland paradises to its insular magic and heaven: A trip to Chiloe

My personal experience on the Big Island of Chiloe



Riding the ferry that links Chile's mainland with the Great Island of Chiloe

is just an amazing experience. However, if it's raining when you do so, the journey becomes a religious experience. Raindrops altering the crystalline peacefulness of the Pacific Ocean emerald waters, prepare the scenario for a

brilliant spectacle of sea wolves swimming by the edge of the ship, along them, an underwater forest of yellowish seaweeds that simulate an endless mermaid hair, provide the finishing touches of a mind blowing picturesque experience.

Ancud bay is our port of arrival. The landscape there resembles to nothing I've ever seen in South America , and I have travelled a lot.


It's just a "bit like England" within the "New World". Yes, one thing in
common to Chiloe, is English weather of Chiloe. Its much like being at home,
I lived in the UK and getting there made me feel a bit home sick ...... So I
feeling very much at home for the whole time I was staying on the Island,
full of fields and cows grazing, land worked for the hay, small pkots with
very green hedges......

So one can say that Chiloe is famous, however, for a few more things that
you don't have in England, the food, the people, the wooden churches, small
villages plenty pf villages across the island.


Ancud is a gorgeous bay where the social spot par excellence is the Port,
the place where local people work, gather for a drink or to chat and enjoy a
wonderful view, and specially the best place to eat some
of the local treats. As the evening began to cape the blue-gray sky the
rainy day had left us with, we sat at a table -that would soon become our
regular table- to enjoy a treat of local fish and a wonderful Chilean White
wine.

As the evening went on, the sky mutated into a deep bluish black lightened
by millions of bright stars and a full moon casting its light over the port
area turned those deep waters silver. We headed back to our hotel, the day
was exhausting and we wanted to enjoy the early morning light for our day
tour.



The next morning, under a fine rain we woke up and got ready to go and visit

the Island's lighthouse. Christened Faro Corona -Crown Lighthouse-, this
construction is some 2 hours car drive from the center of the city. The ride

is just as amazing as the lighthouse itself. It's amazing how gorgeous the
scenario is in this island. I just can't seem to get over its surprising
beauty.

After a couple of days of total relaxation and nature bonding in Ancud, we
leave this heavenly town for another gorgeous location: Castro.

Castro is not only a small very interesting city but also the Island's
capital. Along the Bay front there are famous local constructions are made
atop "palafitos" (pillars), which is a very interesting way to live and work
together with the constant tide movement, which if not addressed properly
would make life very complicated with constant floods.

Walking throughout Castro makes me recall upon my days -back in the 60s- in
Guyana where I used to live at the time it has a Welsh feel to it, may be
because of the intense green hills and constant rain which might make them
share a similar magic.

Without a doubt I find Castro to be a wonderful lost in time spot. I'm
enjoying already its treats.

There's an amazing way in which Castro has managed to blend the old and the
new, its traditions and spectacular insular architecture with the edgy
proposal of the Museum of Modern Art located in Castro's municipal park add
an extra flavor to this gorgeous town of multicolor houses atop wooden
pillars, wonderful Jesuit churches and spectacular cuisine.

Talking of which, our night out in town was a total success: we enjoyed a
superbly well prepared Pisco Sour, the national drink of Chile, with our
treats of Seafood: Abalones with Mayonnaise (Locos con Mayo) which is one of

Chile's national dishes, and it's done with exceptional quality and
expertise and fried Congrio- Conger Eel fish, also a local delicatessen.

During our stay in Castro we enjoyed daily great treats of the Chilean and
Insular cuisine, specially their traditional seafood dishes which we adored.

The days to follow will find us in Gorgeous Chonchi. Like all our previous
stops, this location has that fisherman-peasant insular feel to the town,
atop with an extra flair added because of the intense mapuche culture
influence.

Our visit to the national Park of and the Pacific coast was very special,
the icing of the cake was the outstanding sunset we got to enjoy at the
peer: The ocean was gorgeously decorated with many Salmon Fishing boats of
the local fishermen as the sun hid we chose to enjoy a portside dinner in
our favorite table, with our favorite drink: Pisco sour and try one of the
local specialties: sea soup, which is a rich fish and seafood dish.

Following the southern stretch of the Pan American route #5 Chonchi is a
truly must. Nice and quiet, Chonchi is the main gate to the great lake area
which we happily explored and discovered to be outstanding.

Queilen was our briefest stop, we only spent a day of
Sightseeing the beaches and bay and peacefulness walking along its beaches
for hours and hours,
visiting it's cute and small and rather not interesting lighthouse but
enjoying some time alone with the silence of Nature's beauties.

Quellon, via Chonchi, was our last stop before returning to Chilean
mainland. an immense Salmon fishing port though a tiny town, very
picturesque and nice. An important port that also servers as an entrance or
exit to the Island and a door to the extreme south Patagonia of
Chile......... I will as time permits carry on giving suggestions and ideas
to some of the places I visited or have heard about as time permits me. As
my conclusion for this Big Island of Chiloe, is a place to get back to and
enjoy before the said progress of prosperity arrives...... Cheers to you all
and I hope I have been of some help, Bob Frassinetti. Buenos Aires,
Argentina.

 

www.flickr.com
artdealer_ar's The Museum of Modern Art, Castro, on the Island of Chiloe South Patagonia of Chile. photosetartdealer_ar's The Museum of Modern Art, Castro, on the Island of Chiloe South Patagonia of Chile. photoset

 So if you are interested in Art or Antiques, and you are travelling to Buenos Aires, Argentina and need help, please feel free to email us…….Please feel free to contact Bob Frassinetti: For more information: Email: Bob Frassinetti. Press here to go back to web blog:Daily Updates on Art, Antiques, Collectibles as well as travel information for Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone me thru Skype, ID: Bob Frassinetti or you can also chat with me thru Yahoo, press here:

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Bob Frassinetti Copyright 2007 Roberto Dario Frassinetti

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Posted by bob frassinetti at 4:01 PM
Tuesday, 27 February 2007
Part 2
Topic: Chile

La cita del mediodía nos obliga a una difícil elección de la gran variedad de “cocinerías” que promete el puerto.

Así como al descuido El Caleuche hoy  nos recibe, así como mañana será Las Brisas. Los innumerables comensales  que anuncian cierta calidad de sus alimentos, despejan las dudas.

El menú del día alivia el precio de cada colación, en un país al que la diferencia monetaria lo convierte en sitio de difícil tránsito. Cazuela de res y un plato de fondo de pescado con papas y ensalada aseguran un éxito diario a la hora de elegir.

La sobremesa de hace agradable en la visita de la vecina feria de artesanías en la que los abultados precios  angostan el margen de la tentación turística de consumo: solamente una preciosa batea de madera de raulí trabajada con cincel, a mano. Luego mascullaremos durante el resto de la travesía pedestre, su enorme tamaño, indisimulable en el equipaje.

La trepada del retorno en busca de un cibercafé nos desgarra los tobillos en su esfuerzo de ascenso. La plaza de Castro, rareza turística, se exhibe cercada, (en obra en plena temporada de turismo), para confirmar su inscripción en la lista de Guiness.

Luego de este sitio añoraremos largamente los cafés de Castro, únicos en toda la isla.

La ciudad en su pequeño centro, posee un precioso museo étnico y local, pero en las afueras se posiciona en la cima del parque industrial, el excéntrico y rústico Museo de Arte Moderno, intersección del arte de José Triviño en ésta ocasión, con una muestra maravillosa de arquitectura local.

En el descenso, nos apeamos en el mercado campesino que nos maravilla con sus exóticos productos locales: se destaca la larga

sección que el mercado le dedica al artesanal salmón ahumado, que no podremos consumir en nuestra pequeña mesa de la habitación hotelera.  Sin embargo un sacacorchos prestado y un par de copas nos permiten prolongar el magnífico “Casillero del Diablo”, delicioso sauvignon blanc de fina factura chilena con sus notas de pomelo fresco estallando en la nariz.

 

Nuestro recorrido costanero nos aproxima a la maravillosa ciudad de tres pisos: Chonchi.

La llegada anuncia un paso que se hará costumbre: el ascenso y descenso por sus innumerables callecitas empinadas.

Bordadas de antiguas viviendas centenarias en las que el tiempo asentó las virtudes de sus inalterables materiales, su espectacular presencia contagia de un clima íntimo, en el que el deseo de permanecer largamente se hace carne.

Éste ya largo recorrer insular nos obliga, en su breve pero permanente incomodidad, a la búsqueda de nuestro sitio.

Aún cuando la oferta hotelera es exigua, el esmero junto al deseo nos urgen al mejor de los lugares.

La calle principal nos enfrenta a la bellísima iglesia de Chonchi,  declarada monumento de la humanidad: exhibe sus colores amarillo y celeste pastel en su exterior, impecablemente cuidado.

La ciudad señala su diferencia con la capital, confiriéndole  intimidad  su pequeñez  y prolijidad.

La recorrida hotelera nos lleva  a un sitio impactante, sobre la última lomada en la que transpira el puerto salmonero sus notas  de mar, La Posada del Antiguo Chalet.

 

En una discusión sorda con el conductor que nos anuncia su indisponibilidad al turismo, nuestra insistencia es coronada por el premio de una habitación del siglo anterior, recuerdo de un pasado más luminoso y pudiente.

Testimonio del eclipse de una era, son su dueña y su progenie que aunque amables, nos  inquietan con su ominosa presencia.

Igualmente el lugar es exuberante en su arquitectura, en ella sobrevuela una indisimulada elegancia de antaño que la hace única en su clase.

La vegetación maravillosa, de múltiples especies, se aglomera incansable a la espera de una cuidadosa poda. Sus frutales y sus flores convierten este sitio pregnante de misterio en un descanso más que obligado del visitante.

La mañana acorta su tránsito al mediodía y allí nos encontraremos con un reducto espectacular de la cocina chilota:”El Trébol”, que nos ubicará casi como locales frente a sus ventanas al mar.

El curanto a la olla, la paila marina, el cancato de salmón, el congrio grillado en su punto exacto y el pisco sour regando nuestros atardeceres, dieron a nuestra permanencia en Chonchi el matiz que la haría inolvidable.

La hermosísima costanera de Chonchi plagada de pequeñas embarcaciones, contrasta con el febril trajinar del puerto en el que la pesca de salmón, que pacientemente se “siembra” en sus  aguas alejadas, obligando a una permanente limpieza de sus redes hedionas que le agregan oferta laboral al lugar.

Chonchi, por último, nos muestra bajo su museo local, la vida cotidiana congelada en el diario transcurrir de las habitaciones de una casa tradicional. Obligada recorrida, que delinea, en los

objetos plantados en la historia, al hombre  y sus modos, que en la escena se ausenta.

 

Nuestro viaje a Queilén, próximo pueblo costero ubicado en una península, en un microbús local de corta distancia, nos enfrentó a un tortuoso modo de viajar que utilizan la mayoría de los locales. Vehículos apiñados, donde jamás parece detenerse el ascenso de pasajeros, en colisión unos con otros bajo el sofocante calor del día.

Anhelantes de una promesa geográfica que quedó como incumplida, la playita de Queilén y su pequeño faro fueron lo mejor de nuestro día. El único y mugroso hotelito de la plaza, hizo añicos nuestra estancia, la que sólo resultó posible bajo la secreta promesa de partir que el sigiente día guardaba.

 

La siguiente y última ciudad fue Quellón. Puerto pesquero de gran envergadura para la economía isleña y puerta de salida al continente que nos recibiría después en su bonita y pequeña ciudad Chaitén.

La ciudad reproduce las casas de otras geografías, quizás sin la gracias de sus antecesoras que ocuparon todo el sitio de sorpresa-de-lo-nuevo, quizás porque realmente éste último destino no ofrece demasiados atractivos, o tal vez porque la isla se hace un poco opresiva luego de diez días en ella.

La espera del trasbordador que nos llevaría en un maravilloso viaje de largas horas al territorio continental, marcó las horas de los días.

 

Si bien los pequeños y amables hotelitos de sábanas blancas y crocantes en su limpieza (que lograron barrer con el desagrado del recuerdo del anterior dormidero) fueron generosos con nuestra estancia, y las comidas eran aceptables, el ansia de recobrar la libertad de movimiento que se obtiene en tierra continental empinaba el tiempo de los días previos a la partida.

El día del regreso apuró los ánimos hacia Chaitén, tal vez un gesto de ingratitud para con la maravillosa y mística Isla Grande de Chiloé, que merece un adjetivo (aún poco conocido) como su definitivo alojamiento.

 

Diana Rona Febrero 2007

 

Posted by bob frassinetti at 12:14 PM
Updated: Tuesday, 27 February 2007 4:00 PM
La Isla Grande de Chiloe, Chile Patagonia
Topic: Chile
 La Isla de Chiloé 

El largo trayecto iniciado en las orillas del lago Nahuel Huapí, tuvo como destino marcado para el desembarco,  la misteriosa y mágica Isla Grande de Chiloé.

Territorio de Fiuras y Traucos, modos bajo los cuales los isleños suturaban las fallas en el control sexual de sus habitantes, nombres de los padres o madres desconocidos, sitio de expiación y redención, para  ausentar los pecado de sus días de lluvia.

La lluvia: incesante en el invierno,  vista por geógrafos foráneos como  una de las profundísimas marcas en las que el clima delinea la pobreza, la exclusión, la soledad. Quizás también la locura.

El arquitecto chileno Rojas escribe en las paredes del M.A.M de Castro la historia de la modernidad en las casas del Chiloé  como único consuelo al terremoto de los 60, y firma su texto…”en Chiloé mientras llueve”.

El verano, más seco nos ofrece la mística de sus casas de tejuelas de colores, de sus techados de madera en las que se vive casi como hace un siglo. Las calles de tierra de su primer ciudad, en la línea de la carretera Panamerican: Ancud, se desarrollan en un apacible contorneo de su  bellísisma Bahía.

Los interminables   atardeceres a los que las noches se esmeran en llegar, pintan de rojizo las colinas de los campos cultivados minimamente, en frente de la ciudad.

 

Allí el mar interior apacigua las furias del Pacífico al que solo llegaremos en Cucao, al borde del Parque nacional Chiloé, cerca de nuestro tercer destino: Chonchi.

La ciudad de Ancud alberga como casi todas, los olores del mercado local, mercado campesino. Los pescados y mariscos se muestran en pequeñas mesas que luego se harán más amplias en su capital. Especias y algas retorcidas, se ubican en  meticulosa disposición, buscando quien las compre.

Chiloé es tierra de peces y algas, ellas diversas, algunas con fenomenal cabellera marítima, rubias cascadas que se retorcerán en apretados ramilletes para que  la compra no se dificulte.

El camino hacia el norte nos lleva, en la búsqueda de la punta,  al Faro Corona. Recorrido de rutas serpenteantes.

A la vera del camino las ofertas de “Curanto al Hoyo” se multiplican. Comida típica chilota que amalgama sus productos, de diverso origen, en un ámbito en que las enormes hojas de Nalca acunan mariscos, pescados, carnes de res ahumadas y chancinados. Una amplia variedad de tubérculos multicolores acompañan el plato coronado de milcados, pequeños panes de papa y chicharrones al vapor. La versión campesina los cocina en un hueco enorme en la tierra bajo el calor de piedras calientes y cubiertas de pasto y tierra. Las versiones ciudadanas, en ollas de barro, se ubican a la cabeza de la demanda culinaria local: comer curanto es una fiesta.

Las continuas vueltas en nuestro camino permiten ver los secaderos de algas alechugadas que se tuestan al sol para su posterior traslado al reino nipón, principal consumidor de la diversa clase de alga chilota.

 

La tarde ventosa empuja nuestro retorno a la ciudad luego de de ver las luces gigantes que el faro proyecta sobre el mar.

Si hay algo que acomoda el desprolijo hambre de los turistas, es la generosa oferta horaria en la que se sirve la comida a demanda. Entonces nuestra merienda se convierte en pescados con una copa de vino.

En nuestro regreso el Galeón Azul, obra arquitectónica enclavada en la mejor de las vistas de la ciudad, anhela su pasada gloria hotelera, aún atravesada por el abandono y el olvido de sus cuidadores.

En nuestro apuro por mayor confort recalaremos mañana en la bella Hostería de Ancud, construida sobre el fuerte de la ciudad…relato de la arquitectura sesentista que se replicará en nuestro posterior y segundo destino: Castro.

 

La carretera numerada 5 nos deja en la terminal de buses de Castro, Capital de la Isla Grande. La compañía Cruz del Sur dueña de los viajes, proporciona harta comodidad a las travesías.

La llegada a Castro  golpea con la sordidez de la ciudad grande. Un poco sucia y desprolija aún permite que la bellísima Catedral nos atrape la mirada. Las pequeñas chapas pintadas de color en su exterior la protegen  del agua que el mar difumina en el aire y su magnífico interior íntegramente tapizado en lonjas de madera, desarrollan un estilo en el que lo étnico marca con  fuego  indígena  a la misión cristiana.

La ciudad cuenta con una expandida meseta superior en la que hormiguea una bulliciosa ciudad y  con las empinadas cuestas que llevan al mar, al puerto, al bello y colorido mercado artesanal, a los

palafitos de los pescadores que saciarán el interminable hambre en su extendido horario culinario.

A medida que las ciudades de Chiloé se agrandan la búsqueda hotelera se dificulta. Castro sólo cuenta con su Hostería de Castro, un poco maltratada por los vientos marítimos pero en la que el buen gusto de sus creadores aún sobrevuela la amplitud de sus lugares comunes. Inmejorable su vista sobre el filo del mar; nos disuaden sus tarifas y  como límite más definitivo: sus plazas totalmente colmadas.

Al frente, en el otro lado de la calle, el Hostal Kolping, que recuerda en su nombre al creador de esa cadena de hoteles, nos proporciona un lugar más que bello en su locación aún cuando sus instalaciones bastante deterioradas por el descuido humano nos llevarían a no permanecer. La habitación en la que las enormes ventanas despejan las costas de Castro y sus inigualables amaneceres, acercan los innumerables graznidos de las aves del mar que vuelan incesantemente las tardes luego de sus incursiones al mar en busca de alimento.

En el descenso al mar nos reencontramos con la mística chilota y dejamos atrás sus aspiraciones ciudadanas que tanto nos decepcionaron.

Los palafitos, preciosas casitas de madera multicolor, casi como en los trópicos por su colorido exuberante, se apoyan en larguísimos pilotes de madera para burlar la incesante marea.

A la distancias, ese asentamiento de casas sobre piernas arremangadas  en el mar, proporciona a Castro un sello que la distingue.


Posted by bob frassinetti at 12:04 PM
Updated: Tuesday, 27 February 2007 4:02 PM
Monday, 26 February 2007
The Lanz Tractors in Argentina: Lanz Bulldog and Pampa
Topic: Antique Tractors
The Lanz Tractors in Argentina: Bulldog and Pampa
The Lanz Tractors in Argentina: Bulldog and Pampa The origin of Lanz tractors can be traced to the early 1920s. These German tractors were made in the plant in Manheim in Germany until approximately 1960, where the majority of the models had single cylinder, horizontal, two-stroke engines. LANZ In Germany, Lanz produced Bulldog tractors including the Model T crawler and the L, N and P wheeled models offering 15, 23 and 45bhp respectively. Back in the early days, Lanz was synonym of efficiency and low cost strong machines. This made them special within the international market for it was the best ally to start off agricultural businesses. This unique feature made of Lanz tractors a world wide trademark, exporting their models in and around the globe. Lanz came to Argentina through means of importing the finished product the same way they did in other Latin American countries such as Uruguay, Brazil, etc. These greatly appreciated tractors had bee manufactured at Mannheim Germany from the mid 1930's until the Second World War. At that point more than 100,000 Bulldog tractors had been produced when the factory was virtually destroyed by bombing in the early part of the Second World War. After a struggle to re-establish production after the war it was the late 1940's before the 06 series of tractors reappeared in 1956 John Deere took over the company and the old Lanz factory is now their European manufacturing base. For more information: Email: admin@frassinetti.com Bob Frassinetti. Press here to go back to web blog:Daily Updates on Art, Antiques, Collectibles as well as travel information for Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone me thru Skype, ID: Bob Frassinetti or you can also chat with me thru Yahoo, press here: Yahoo Contact Find me on MySpace and be my friend!
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Lanz Bulldog D9506 and for sale 
Lanz Bulldog D9506 huntong tractors in Argentina. Lanz Tractors in Argentina: Bulldog and Pampa The origin of Lanz tractors can be traced to the early 1920s. These German tractors were made in the plant in Manheim in Germany until approximately 1960, where the majority of the models had single cylinder, horizontal, two-stroke engines. LANZ In Germany, Lanz produced Bulldog tractors including the Model T crawler and the L, N and P wheeled models offering 15, 23 and 45bhp respectively. Back in the early days, Lanz was synonym of efficiency and low cost strong machines. This made them special within the international market for it was the best ally to start off agricultural businesses. This unique feature made of Lanz tractors a world wide trademark, exporting their models in and around the globe. Lanz came to Argentina through means of importing the finished product the same way they did in other Latin American countries such as Uruguay, Brazil, etc. These greatly appreciated tractors had bee manufactured at Mannheim Germany from the mid 1930's until the Second World War. At that point more than 100,000 Bulldog tractors had been produced when the factory was virtually destroyed by bombing in the early part of the Second World War. After a struggle to re-establish production after the war it was the late 1940's before the 06 series of tractors reappeared in 1956 John Deere took over the company and the old Lanz factory is now their European manufacturing base. The history of Lanz tractors in Argentina is all in all richer, for these famous German Field machines were the base inspiration for Argentina’s single most interesting made Tractor: PAMPA. Made during the second presidency of Juan Domingo Peron, the State Industry Company IAME, altered the German Bulldog Lanz to make it the Argentine way. The traditional blue color in these tractors was changed for a bright orange. Changing the type of gas supply which in Germany was Diesel oil for a cheaper fuel available in Argentina which was a mix of kerosene and used oil or even animal fat, the Pampa was a really inexpensive productive tractor. There were only 3500 Pampa tractors made in Argentina. Click here to join RN40
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For more information on Tractors or if you are interested in buying Art or Antiques, and you are thinking of travelling to Argentina please feel free to email Bob Frassinetti: For more information: Email: Bob Frassinetti. Press here to see all topics on Art, Antiques and Travel Information for Buenos Aires & Argentina:Daily Updates on Art, Antiques, Collectibles as well as travel information for Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone me thru Skype, ID: Bob Frassinetti or you can also chat with me thru Yahoo, press here:

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Link to Photo Album Art & Antique Dealer Bob Frassinetti


Read The Buenos Aires Art Dealer a e-zine magazine on Art, Antiques & Collectibles from Argentina. The Buenos Aires ArtDealer, Argentina.

Bob Frassinetti Copyright Roberto Dario Frassinetti 2007

 

 

Posted by bob frassinetti at 1:38 PM
Updated: Tuesday, 27 February 2007 4:06 PM
Thursday, 11 January 2007
Looking for Travel information on Route 40 Argentina RN 40
Topic: Route 40 Tour

 

Go to this web page see below for Travel information for Route 40 and Buenos Aires Argentina
 

The magic of route 40 Argentina  ........... Press Daily updates and go to this web page RN 40 Route 40 Argentina:Daily Updates for Route 40 Argentina.
And ff you would like to take part in any of our tours or in this interesting rally venture or just are looking for information on Route 40 Ruta 40, Argentina, please don’t hesitate to contact us directly thru email, phone ( 0054 11 4792 4787 ) or chat. Press here: Contact me See "artdealer_ar" profile on Yahoo, I'm online now!:You can chat with me using Yahoo Instant Messenger. Email : Email Bob Frassinetti.
And keep updated Join this YAhoo Group RN 40 for all kinds of information on Route 40 Argentina.......

Click here to join RN40
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Other Links with information on RN 40 Route 40 Argentina & Tour, Patagonia & all Argentina
Route 40 Photo Gallery Patagonia & all Argentina
Route 40 Tour Patagonia Argentina Adventure
Route 40 Argentina Blog
Road Side Sanctuaries for Route 40 Argentina
Car Rally Tour for Highway 40 Argentina

 



Link to Photo Album Art & Antique Dealer Bob Frassinetti


Read The Buenos Aires Art Dealer a e-zine magazine on Art, Antiques & Collectibles from Argentina. The Buenos Aires ArtDealer, Argentina.

Bob Frassinetti Copyright Roberto Dario Frassinetti 2007

 


Posted by bob frassinetti at 7:29 PM
Updated: Saturday, 13 January 2007 11:45 PM

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